Found in the Sunni quarter of Beirut, the bustling street of Hamra is legendary. Despite its location, the street has drawn people from all segments of Lebanon’s fracticious society – old and young, Christian and Muslim, rich and poor.
This inclusion, in addition to its proximity to the American University of Beirut allowed Harma to host preeminent Arab writers in its cafes, lure established and aspiring playwrights to its theaters, and fill its sidewalks with merchants, tourists and curious passers-by. Through Lebanon’s brutal civil war, Hamra’s troubles inspired poetry and today it remains relevant in the country’s latest pop songs.
When West Beirut (including the Hamra district) fell under Hezbollah’s occupation this past May, the sense of loss and outrage was palpable throughout Lebanon. Yet while the loss of this cultural site affected many, it also signaled to the Sunni-majority residents in particular their growing vulnerability in an increasingly Shia-dominated society.
Even though the Hezbollah army has come and gone, scars remain. The spring incursion has added fuel to the Shia-Sunni fire, leading to outbursts of violence in North Lebanon and the Bekaa Valley.
While Beirut itself is struggling to conduct “business as usual” for the tourist season, a stroll down Hamra reveals all is not well. Where advertisements for jewelry, clothing and local cuisine compete with one another on the crowded street, they are now joined by the ominous presence of Amal and Syrian Social Nationalist flags.
These banners have stained Hamra since May and are obviously intended to play upon feelings of humiliation and defeat experienced by residents. But because of the street’s symbolism, they also send formidable messages to the Lebanese as a whole. And while it is important to note that no Hezbollah flags are still nowhere to be found, it is doubtful that their allies could indulge in this anatagonistic, spiteful behavior without at least tacit consent.
This outrage has not been passively endured. A number of contained violent episodes have taken place over the past few weeks as young men from the neighborhood clash with Pro-Amal/Syrian Social Nationalist groups.
Just this week, however, a silver lining has emerged. The country’s Internal Security Forces have teamed up with the army to address the banner issue. Admittedly, this small step will do little to assuage the deep divides – many old, many new – that exist between Hezbollah and its supporters and the rest of the country, but it is hard to imagine future progress without it.
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